Read more: https://www.surfer.com/blogs/culture/surf-bathing-revisited/
TIL Mark Twain was one of the first American writers to document native islanders surfing in Polynesia. In his 1872 travelogue, “Roughing It”, Twain describes watching it, and even attempts it himself. But only once.
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I never would have associated Mark Twain with surfing.
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